Alpine Club of Canada

ACC Gazette Winter 2019

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12 The Alpine Club of Canada | Gazette | Winter 2019 Tuzo can also be accessed from the ACC's Neil Colgan Hut, but there are a few mountains in the way, including Mt. Allen, skirting which involves a long traverse on that mountain's west and south sides across mindless scree. We were looking for something different. When we were at the Colgan Hut a few years ago, I noticed an enormous prominent gendarme perched high on the north edge of Mt. Allen. Maybe, we thought, there would be a ledge that would allow us to skirt the north side of the mountain, avoiding the ugly southern scree traverse. The only way to find out was to go 'put our noses against it'. At 06:05 on July 22, Mike Dodge, Chuck and I reached the Moraine Lake parking lot zoo, but we didn't get a parking spot until 06:35! We reached the Colgan Hut via the Perren route and spent a lazy afternoon before bedding down early. Starting at 05:30 the next morning, we didn't need crampons and within one hour had crossed the glacier to reach the low point (grid reference 552827) in the south ridge of Mount Perren. After some discus- sion we climbed up the broken ground and ledges of Allen's northeast ridge but were unable to find a 'magical' ledge that would lead towards the gendarme; another party might have better success. Rather than descending, we pushed upwards on Allen's east ridge toward a light coloured rock band that barred prog- ress (545828) at the top of the snowfields. We turned sharply to the northwest, towards the southeast ridge of Tuzo, which at this point was clearly visible. We put on our crampons, slung a large block and did two 60m rappels down a snow couloir to a rocky promontory. The snow was still in quite good condition but some icy spots were showing through. From here we belayed each other to com- plete a slightly descending traverse to regain the northwest ridge of Allen (543828). Our ice screws were very welcome as was the third ice tool we had brought along! From here the route was fairly straight- forward. We descended the ridge to the Allen-Tuzo col, and then climbed up the southeast ridge to the summit of Tuzo. Although the SE ridge appears to have some significant gendarmes and rock steps, all of these can be passed fairly easily on the southwest side. We gained the summit at 13:00 and found that we were the first party to make a register entry since 2015. Looking for stocking stuffers? Get the perfect ACC inspired gift at ACC Throwback Tech T-Shirt Abbot Pass Buff ACC Hiking Cap - Silver Nano ATB- UV Left: Rappelling down the snow gully on the north side of Allen. Small snow patches on Allen-Tuzo col visible on the right. Photo Allan Main

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