Alpine Club of Canada

Summer Mountaineering Leader Field Handbook THE ALPINE CLUB OF CANADA Photo: Max Malynowsky

• Cover
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• Acknowledgements
• Foreword
• Introduction
• Target audience
• Limitations
• Disclaimer
• Designing a Summer Mountaineering Outing
• Pre-trip planning
• Establishing trip objectives
• Trip duration and logistical complexity
• Access
• Mountain terrain
• Choice of terrain type and feature
• Selecting a mountain route
• Permit requirements
• Seasonal/unusual closures, and access issues
• Determining participant prerequisite requirements
• Defining leader to participant ratios
• Developing pre-trip communications
• Equipment and clothing list
• Personal equipment
• Clothing
• Group equipment
• Technical equipment
• Camping equipment
• Layering
• Characteristics of base layers
• Characteristics of mid layers
• Characteristics of outer layers
• Risk management
• Emergency response plan
• Waiver Documents
• Medical forms
• Contingency plans
• Trips with minors (participants under the age of majority)
• References and further reading
• Preparing Participants for a Summer Mountaineering Outing
• Coordinating and communicating with participants
• Gathering weather information
• Resources for gathering weather information
• Understanding basic weather
• Local terrain and micro-climate
• Pre-trip risk assessment
• Weather and potential impact/risks on a trip
• Weather monitoring during a summer mountain outing
• References and further reading
• Delivery of a Mountaineering Outing
• Waiver administration
• Principles of group management
• Communication
• Expectations
• Leadership
• Self-leadership
• Education
• Guidance
• Conflict resolution
• Risk management
• Risk analysis
• Situational awareness
• Hazard recognition
• Hazard mitigation
• Rockfall hazard management
• Participant demonstrated competency
• References and further reading
• Wilderness Ethics and Ecology
• Principles of low impact travel
• Summer travel
• Camping
• Human waste
• Group size
• Wildlife issues
• Interpretive skills
• Mountains morphology
• Canadian fauna
• Canadian flora
• The night sky
• Cultural and human history
• References and further reading
• Advanced Navigation Skills
• Latitude and longitude
• Maps
• Topographic maps
• Grid references
• Contour lines
• Compass basics and types
• How many norths are there?
• Bearings and accuracy
• Taking bearings
• Transferring a bearing from the map to the field
• Resection
• Altimeter
• Whiteout navigation
• Handrails
• Aiming off
• Route cards (Recording a whiteout navigation plan)
• Whiteout travel techniques
• Time planning guidelines
• Other considerations
• Global Positioning Systems (GPS)
• Wands
• Summary
• References and further reading
• Camping in a Summer Mountaineering Environment
• Introduction
• Types of shelters
• Sleeping systems
• Campsite Site Selection & Preparation
• Camping Considerations
• Kitchens
• Meal Preparation for a Summer Environment
• Meal planning
• Personal hygiene
• References and further reading
• Expedition Techniques
• What is an expedition?
• Leadership
• Considerations for group management on extended trips
• The life-cycle model of a group
• Conflict
• Framework for debriefing
• Planning logistics for extended trips
• Medical
• Communication
• Access
• Food
• Fuel
• Equipment
• Adaptation to environmental stresses
• Altitude
• Symptoms of altitude sickness
• Treatment
• References and further reading
• Responding to Emergencies
• Performing first aid
• Common medical issues
• Feet
• Sun
• Burns
• Lightning
• Hypothermia
• Emergency communications
• Communication devices
• Helicopters
• Safety around the helicopter
• Selecting a landing zone
• Emergency survival skills
• Emergency shelters
• Fire lighting
• Group management in emergency situations
• References and further reading
• Rope Handling Skills
• Equipment
• Soft goods
• Hard goods
• Inspections and lifespans
• Knots
• Anchors
• Anchor criteria
• Belay anchor configurations
• Belaying
• Lead belaying
• Belaying the second
• Rappelling
• System set-up
• Multiple Rappels
• Lowering
• Set-up
• The lower
• Italian Hitch
• Double Italian Hitch
• Rope ascending
• Texas Prusik set-up
• Ascending the rope
• References and further reading
• Glacier Travel Skills
• Glaciology
• Terminology
• Climate change
• Equipment for glacier travel
• Travel techniques
• Principles
• Roping up
• Crevasse rescue
• Stopping a fall
• How to build an anchor
• Getting out of the crevasse
• The steps
• How to transfer the load to an anchor
• Determine a course of action
• How to haul an able-bodied climber
• How to haul an injured climber out of a crevasse
• References and further reading
• Rock Climbing Skills
• Rock movement
• Face climbing
• Crack climbing
• Corner and chimney climbing
• Slab climbing
• Routefinding
• Planning strategies
• Multi-pitch climbing
• Logistics
• equipment selection
• Carrying the gear
• Climbing physics
• Principles of protection placement
• Protection placement strategies
• Cleaning
• Belay station construction
• Rock rescue
• Improvised rescue
• Rescue from above
• Rescue from below (fallen leader)
• Raising systems
• References and further reading
• Snow and Ice Climbing Skills
• Equipment
• Boots
• Crampons
• Ice axe
• Snow movement skills
• Foot movement
• Use of the axe
• Glissading
• Self-arrest
• Ice movement skills
• Turning corners
• Ice axe positions
• Multi-pitch climbing
• Low angle snow and ice
• High angle snow – pitched climbing
• Belay station construction – snow
• High angle ice – pitched climbing
• Belay station construction – ice
• Routefinding
• Couloirs
• Ridges
• Faces
• References and further reading
• Short-roping Skills
• Terrain rating
• Principles of short-roping
• Communication
• Ratios
• A Continuum of techniques
• Confidence roping
• Short-roping
• Short pitching
• Limitations
• Routefinding
• Pacing
• Descending
• Belays
• Transitions
• Short rope to glacier travel
• Glacier travel to short rope
• Glacier to short rope (and prepared for pitched)
• Short rope to pitched
• Water Crossings in Summer
• Principles of water crossing
• Hazard management
• Decision making and communication
• Hazard assessment
• Water crossing techniques
• Log crossing
• Highline (Tyrolean Traverse)
• Boulder hopping
• In the water
• Using the rope
• References and further reading
• Manage Groups in Avalanche Terrain
• Principles of travelling in avalanche terrain
• Are we in avalanche terrain?
• Terminology
• Weather influence
• Snowpack characteristics
• Major snowpack variables
• Melt freeze cycle
• Avalanche problems are described according to their attributes
• Overhead hazard
• Cornices
• Seracs
• People above
• Glide cracks
• Summer seasonal snowpack
• Process of daily hazard evaluation
• Terrain assessment
• Route selection
• Equipment selection
• Rescue
• Accidents
• References and further reading
• Credits