Alpine Club of Canada

SummerGazette2017

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18 The Alpine Club of Canada Gazette Summer 2017 David Fisher who was then the ACC's Eastern Vice President, particularly raising the necessary funds that much exceeded the $25,000 grant. In the end, the expedition received $77,000 from government sources with most of the rest of the $132,000 total coming from camp fees—$250 each for International and Centennial team members, and $200 for the General Mountaineering Camp participants. e first phase of the 1967 YACE was Good Neighbour Peak, the virgin 15,720‑ foot south summit of Mount Vancouver to be climbed by a joint team of four Canadians led by Monty Alford and four Americans led by Vin Hoeman. e south summit lies on the international boundary while the north peak, at 15,860 feet, first climbed in 1949, and the 15,800‑ foot central peak are entirely in Canada. On June 19 and 21, ski planes landed the team members on Valerie Glacier at about 7,000 feet on the U.S. side below the south ridge. During a week of good and bad weather they carried loads up to the ridge in deep snow, then along an icy ridge with sections of friable rock to pitch camps at 10,300 feet, 11,800 feet and 14,000 feet. On June 25 they all reached the summit, and five climbers continued The 1967 Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition by DonalD morton W ith Canada celebrating its 150th birthday this year, it is appropriate to retell the story of the Yukon Alpine Centennial Expedition (YACE) of 1967. Much of the story is covered by the excellent book Expedition Yukon edited by Marnie Fisher and published by omas Nelson. To recognize the 100th anniversary of Confederation, the Federal Government encouraged communities and organiz‑ ations to propose projects for grants up to $25,000 each. In thinking about what the Yukon Territory might do, Craig Hughes, legal advisor to the Territory Commissioner, suggested choosing a range of peaks in the Saint Elias Mountains to be climbed and named by parties from each of the provinces and territories, as well as a peak on the border with Alaska in recognition of the United States having purchased that territory from Russia in 1867. Monty Alford of the Federal Department of Energy, Mines and Resources, who was in Whitehorse at the time, identified an east‑west group of unclimbed peaks between the Chitina and Walsh Glaciers with altitudes above 10,000 feet that would be suitable. e project needed climbers, so Hughes and Alford contacted e Alpine Club of Canada, which had already suggested to the American Alpine Club a joint climb of a border peak. e ACC happily joined the project and decided to locate their regular 1967 summer moun‑ taineering camp in the same area. Soon the major work organizing the project became the responsibility of Mount British Columbia team members (from left) Karl Winter, Andy Gruft, Ralph Hutchinson and Byron Olson relax at T-Bone Base Camp. | Repos au camp de base T-Bone des membres du mont British Columbia. De la gauche : Karl Winter, Andy Gruft, Ralph Hutchinson et Byron Olson. photo: Don morton From left, Pat Baird, Jim Caldwell and Jim Ferguson climb the summit ridge of Mount Northwest. De la gauche : Pat Baird, Jim Caldwell et Jim Ferguson grimpent la crête du sommet du mont Northwest. photo: Don morton

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